(c) 2001 Jim Morrison
A home inspector’s job is to diagnose and document major problems in houses. Most of the time, these problems are not very apparent, which is why our job is so difficult. You have to look closely to pick up on the symptoms and exercise judgement based on your experience in order to figure each puzzle out. It’s even harder for the average untrained person to recognize signs of trouble. Whether you are looking to purchase a new house, or you’re just trying to maintain the house you live in, here are some things you can look for to flesh out potential problems that are not always obvious:
If you are serious about buying a particular home, I recommend that you begin by going to the Town Building Department and ask to see the folder for that address. It is public information to which you are entitled access. This will tell you what work has been done on the property that has been approved by the Municipality. You should also try to obtain a written disclosure on the condition of the property from the current owners. While these are not mandatory in
Here’s three free tips I picked up in my second house (my most ambitious purchase to date): 1) That long circular driveway that I thought would be great when we have parties seems even bigger when it comes time to shovel! 2) For every minute I spend in the nice weather playing fetch with my black lab in that enormous back yard, I spend an hour marching behind a lawnmower, and who do you think is going to do all that raking? 3) Apple trees add a lot to the landscape, picking apples up off the ground before mowing the lawn each week does not. Keep all seasons in mind when looking at the yard.
Most of the time you won’t be able to see the roofing material up close, but you should ask the owners if they know how old it is. Most homes in this area have asphalt shingles on their roofs which can be expected to last a total of about 20 years. If you are able to see the shingles up close, check the south and west facing exposures because they wear out sooner due to increased exposure to the sun. Some signs that a roof may need to be replaced include: loss of shingle grit in the spaces between the tabs, curling, cracking, and missing shingles.
Look at the house from a short distance at all angles. Do all of the lines appear straight? Does the roof’s ridge sag? Does the house look like its leaning significantly to one direction or another? Some settling should be expected, particularly in older homes, but if it is appreciably more than the settlements you’ve seen in other homes of similar age, it could mean there is a structural problem.
Make sure you spend some time looking at the porches and stairs, too. Many homeowners try to save some money by building their own deck, and end up creating hazards in the process. Some of the more obvious problems include: decay to the house just beneath where the deck attaches to it, due to a lack of flashing between the house and the deck, missing or insufficient railings, lack of footings beneath the columns supporting the deck, and missing joist hangers at the flush framed joist connections. Bounce up and down on the deck, if it deflects noticeably, it should be reinforced. If there is a lot of decay in the deck, then it is probably constructed of untreated wood and it will continue to decay and have to be completely replaced before too long.
The grade of the soil around the house should be pitched so water drains away from the foundation. You should also check the yard for areas that look like they get unusually wet in the spring. Tree limbs should not be touching or overhanging the house and any trees that appear ill should be removed before they fall and cause personal or property damage.
If there are no gutters on the house, you will want to have some installed. Proper installation and maintenance of rain gutters, coupled with a yard that slopes away from the house is paramount to preventing moisture problems. One sign that the area around the house is too damp is mildew growth on the siding (particularly on the North facing side) Mildew will continue to flourish where relative humidity is high, so it is very important to keep the area around the house as light and dry as possible to retard the recurrence of mildew. When the house is next repainted (or stained), a mildewcide additive can be mixed in the with paint (or stain) to help the problem. Signs of past or current moisture in the basement include: a musty smell, efflorescence (salts) on the foundation walls, corrosion on the bottoms of steel columns, mildew, mustiness, staining on anything resting on the floor, and the presence of a sump pump.
Look for ½ inch diameter holes patched with newer looking mortar in the cellar floor slab and exterior paved surfaces next to the house, which indicates that the house has been treated for termites. If you see them, you’ll want to ask the current owner of the property for more information in order to assist you in the decision to purchase the property, including: When it was treated and by whom, is the treatment warranteed and is that warrantee transferable, and where the termites damaged the house (if at all), and was the damage replaced?
Termite activity itself is very difficult for anyone but an exterminator to find. However, if you see brown tubes that appear to be made from mud that are about the same width as a pencil, running up a foundation wall or on wood in the basement or anywhere near the ground, its very likely you’ve discovered termites eating the house! Piles of sawdust, or serious any activity can indicate a carpenter ant problem.
The use of electrical extension cord feeds and electrical receptacle adapters is the cause of many fires. If you see a lot of these in the house, then you’ll know that you’ll need to hire a licensed electrician to install new electrical receptacles and fixtures as needed.
It may sound funny, but I also look for price tags, particularly on the electrical and plumbing components. This is almost always a sign that a homeowner did the work instead of a qualified, licensed professional. If you see price tags and the work appears sloppy, you should check to see if a building permit was obtained.
Look at the insulation on the heating system and pipes or ducts. If it is white and looks similar to a plastered cast, it could contain asbestos. To know for certain, it must be sampled and tested in a laboratory (though some manufacturers boldly brag of the asbestos content on the label if you can find one). If it does contain asbestos, any friable asbestos pipe insulation should removed or encapsulated by a Massachusetts-certified professional, which will be expensive.
If the house has central air conditioning, you should ask the current owners of the property how old the system components are. The average life span of the outdoor condenser unit it typically 15-20 years and the average life span of the interior air handler is typically 30 years or so.
Shine a flashlight inside the heating or cooling ducts and look around. Chances are, the interior will be coated with dirt. You should strongly consider having the interior of the air ducts and the air handler professionally cleaned before moving into the house, especially someone in your family has allergies. For more information about indoor air quality, visit this web site.
Inside the house, turn every light switch on and off to make sure they work. You should also try to open and close every window, checking for broken glass, broken sash cords, fogged double paned glass, and loose windows. Operate every faucet, run the shower and tub and flush all toilets looking for leaks at the appliance. When you have operated every plumbing fixture in the house, go back down into the basement and check for leaks.
You should also be looking for water stains on the walls and ceiling which indicate a past or current leak. Notice the pattern of the cracking in the walls and ceilings. It’s hard to find a house with no cracks at all, and cracks are not necessarily a sign of a structural problem. However, certain patterns can tip you off to a settlement problem that will require further investigation.
At least poke your head and a flashlight into the attic so you can look for leaks in the roof and signs of animals living there. Ideally you should also see at least 6-8 inches of insulation in the attic floor (never against the roof sheathing). Mildew growth and frost on the roof sheathing is a sign that the attic needs more venting. Ideally, the air temperature in the attic should be within 10-20°F of the ambient air temperature.
Once you’ve gone through this checklist and identified the areas of the house that need attention, call a professional and get them fixed! It is always cheaper, easier, and better to repair problems sooner, rather than later. Besides, you’ll enjoy the house even more knowing it’s in tip top shape!
Once you’ve satisfied yourself that this is a house you’d like to purchase, ask the owner to answer these questions from the
You should ask the current homeowners to answer the following in writing:
To the Best of Your Knowledge as the Seller and/or Seller's Representative:
(a) Does the dwelling have a history of seepage, dampness, and/or water penetration into the Basement and/or Under Floor Crawl Space? If so please explain.
(b) Has a sump pump ever been installed or used in the Basement/Under Floor Crawl Space?
(c) Do you use any type of dehumidification in any part of the dwelling?
(d) Are you aware of any mold and/or air quality issues in the dwelling?
(e) Is the dwelling on a private sewage system?
1. If the waste system is private, has a Title V inspection been completed, and is the completed Title V Report available for review?
2. Has the dwelling ever been inspected and/or treated for insect infestation?
a. If so, when?
b. What were the chemicals used?
(f) Has the dwelling ever been tested for radon gas and/or lead paint?
1. If so when?
2. What were the results?
(g) Has the dwelling ever been inspected by an Inspector?
1. If so, when?
2. Were any problems noted?
3. Is a copy of the inspection Report available?
(h) Are the Seller/ Seller's Representative aware of any structural, mechanical, electrical or other material defects that may exist on the property?
(i) Has there ever been a fire in the dwelling?
1. If so, when?
2. What areas were involved?
3. What chemical cleaners, if any, were used for cleanup?
(j) Has there ever been a hazardous waste spill on the property?
(k) Is there is an underground storage tank on the property?
Jim Morrison
978.851.6315
Morrison Home Inspections
"Each house tells a story. We write 'em down."
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